The second day of sight seeing in Rome was all about the Vatican. As I mentioned in the last post, our tour guide was Scottish Ian, who was raised Roman Catholic and majored in Art History at Glasgow University. The previous day, Ian left us with, "they say it takes a lifetime to understand Rome. It takes even longer to understand the Vatican." No way we were passing on the offer to go explore.
We met Ian at the Romaround office, where he distributed headphones and receivers so that we can follow his commentary without his needing to shout. Being part of a tour group allowed us to skip the really long line, and with the exception of some rain, the entrance to the Vatican was smooth.
Once past security, we got to meet some of our fellow tourists in the group. One pair that stood out was a father and his eighteen year old son. Based in Chicago, the two have been traveling all around the world since February. The son, Jack, was a good kid and was enjoying the break after graduating high school six months early. He'll be attending Northeastern next fall. The father shared that they'd been to Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Hong Kong, and a bunch of other places. Rome was the last stop. I asked which place he recommended most highly. Interestingly, he was pushing Havana, Cuba. I'll have to check it out.
The tour started with some facts about the Vatican.
• it's the smallest country in the world, with only 900 citizens
• it has it's own currency, airport, army and laws
• there is a zero birthrate in the Vatican (obvious reasons)
I didn't really know what to expect of the tour itself, but I couldn't have imagined a better showcase of renaissance art. Ian's background made his remarks extremely relevant; he pointed out tons of little things in the paintings and statues that really made me appreciate the art.
The Vatican was the most mind-blowing place on the trip for several reasons.
First, the sheer amount of paintings, statues, and cloth artifacts was absolutely staggering. I didn't know Roman civilization existed long enough to produce that much work. There was more of it than I thought possible in the whole world. And all of it was really fucking good.
The second thing that I found fascinating was the lesson on the Vatican's role in Roman history. Christianity appeared in Rome around 350 A.D. and very quickly took priority over paganism. As part of the growth of Christianity, the Pope became the most powerful person in the world. The authority definitely got to the Vatican's head as they slowly tore away at many ancient Roman structures in the sake of building more churches. As the tour guide put it, "no quarry was as close as the colosseum".
The flourishing of art during the renaissance came over 1,000 years after Christianity took hold. As part of the wave of newness in Rome, a certain Pope decided to repair the relationship with the Jews since Jesus was Jewish. The gesture? A little something called the Sistine chapel.
Regarding the sistine chapel, the dynamic between the Pope and Michaelangelo was most intriguing to me.
You see, Michaelangelo was a passionate sculptor who viewed painting as an inferior form of expression to sculpting. However, the Pope was so intent on having Michaelangelo paint the Sistine chapel ceiling that he basically forced him to do it. Imagine doing something you hate for 5 years, and you get the picture.
The most impressive part of the story is that Michaelangelo's sole instructions from the Pope were: "tell the story of the desciples". Michaelangelo was so talented that he then taught himself how to paint and created the best painting in history. I say it's the best because our tour guide spent 45 minutes just telling us about the Sistine chapel ceiling. It's unreal.
All in all, my time in Rome made me wonder what was so magical about Christianity, that it was worth putting above just about everything else in Rome. The funds used to build Rome's 900 churches could have been allocated towards research and development of just about anything. But in stead of a prosperous and peaceful rule of Christianity, the Vatican initiated the crusades and under the cloak of good-doing, the entirety of Europe went into the Dark Ages.
Rome was ground zero for the clash between the old and the new.
Striking the perfect balance between appreciating the past and planning the future is always a challenge.
I think it's time for another renaissance.